Is hiring a motorbike or scooter to travel around Sri Lanka a good idea for tourists?

As someone who has ridden motorbikes across Sri Lanka for 15 years — here is an honest assessment for an experienced Southeast Asian rider:

Roads:
- A-grade highways (A1, A2 etc.) are generally good
- B and C roads vary enormously — some are excellent, many have potholes, unexpected speed bumps, and unmarked road closures
- Hill country roads (Galle → Ella) are winding and narrow but scenic and manageable
- Night riding: avoid it. Unmarked vehicles, wandering animals, and poor road lighting make it genuinely dangerous

Driving culture:
- More chaotic than Thailand but less so than Vietnam. Overtaking culture is aggressive.
- Buses and trucks will not give way — give way to them, always
- Horn use is communicative, not aggressive — use it before blind corners

Licence and police:
- Technically you need an International Driving Permit (IDP) with motorcycle endorsement
- Police checkpoints exist but foreigner enforcement varies by location
- If stopped, be polite. A fine is typically LKR 2,500–5,000. Paying unofficially is common but not something I'll advise.

Rental quality:
- In Colombo, Galle, Ella, and Sigiriya areas there are decent rental shops
- Inspect the bike thoroughly before taking it. Check brakes, tyres, lights
- Cost: ~LKR 2,000–3,500/day for a 125cc–150cc bike

Verdict: Feasible for an experienced rider. Galle → Ella is a fantastic motorbike route. Sigiriya onwards the roads get more straightforward. Enjoy it.