Kandy Temple of the Tooth — complete practical guide: what to see, when to go, what happens during puja?
The Temple of the Tooth in Kandy is on every itinerary but I haven't found a good practical guide for what actually happens there and how to make the most of a visit.
1. What exactly is housed in the Temple — can you see the actual tooth relic?
2. When are the daily puja ceremonies and what happens during them?
3. Is it worth timing your visit around a specific puja?
4. How long does a proper visit take?
5. What is the dress code and are there any gotchas for foreign visitors?
6. Is the entry fee reasonable for what you get?
7. What else is in the temple complex beyond the main shrine?
8. What is the Esala Perahera festival and when does it happen?
I have deep interest in Buddhism so I want to understand what I'm seeing, not just walk through.
2 Answers
The Temple of the Tooth (Sri Dalada Maligawa) is the most sacred Buddhist site in Sri Lanka and among the most important in the world. Here is everything you need to know.
The relic: The tooth relic of the Buddha is housed in a nested series of gold reliquary caskets inside the inner shrine. You cannot see the tooth directly — the caskets are not opened for the general public (only during Esala Perahera). What you see is the outermost golden casket on its altar, with offerings of flowers and lit oil lamps. The atmosphere is profoundly devotional.
Puja ceremony times: Three daily:
- Thevava: 5:30–6:30 AM
- Nanumura Mangalyaya: 9:30–11:00 AM
- Deweva: 6:30–8:00 PM
Drums (Hewisi music) are played to announce each puja — the sound is extraordinary and unique. The evening puja is the most atmospheric as the temple is lit with oil lamps. Strongly recommend attending the evening puja.
Visit duration: 1.5–2 hours for a thorough visit including the puja observation, the museum with historical regalia, the shrine rooms, and the peaceful courtyard.
Entry fee: LKR 1,500 (approximately USD 5) for foreign visitors. Reasonable.
Dress code: Shoulders and knees covered, shoes removed at the entrance. Sarongs available. No shorts or sleeveless tops. This is strictly enforced.
The complex: Beyond the main shrine, the complex includes the Audience Hall, the National Museum of the Tooth Relic (excellent), and the Alut Maligawa (new shrine) with impressive Kandyan architecture.
Esala Perahera: Held in July–August, this is one of Asia's greatest festivals — 10 days of processions with 100 elephants, drummers, and fire dancers, culminating in a night procession through Kandy. Accommodation must be booked months in advance.
Attended the evening puja at 6:30 PM — arrived 20 minutes early and got a position overlooking the inner shrine room. When the drums started and the monks chanted, with the entire room filled with white-clad devotees offering flowers and the smell of incense and jasmine, it was one of the most moving experiences of the entire trip. Not religious myself but genuinely overwhelmed. Budget time for the evening puja specifically.
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