Kandy Esala Perahera - when does it happen, where are the best viewing spots, and how do I get seats?

The Kandy Esala Perahera is the most spectacular festival in Sri Lanka and planning around it is absolutely worth it. Here is everything you need to know.

Dates: the festival runs for 10 nights in late July or early August each year, exact dates set by the lunar calendar. It culminates on the Nikini full moon night - the Randoli Perahera, which is the grandest procession. Search "Kandy Perahera dates" with the relevant year closer to your travel.

What you will see: up to 100 elaborately caparisoned elephants including the Maligawa Tusker carrying the golden casket containing the Sacred Tooth Relic, Kandyan dancers, fire performers, drummers, and standard-bearers - a procession stretching over 1km.

Viewing options:
- Free street viewing: arrive by 5pm for an 8pm start to claim a spot along Dalada Vidiya (the main circuit around the Temple of the Tooth). Barrier railings mean you need to be early for front-row access.
- Paid bleacher seats: the temple and nearby hotels sell numbered seats (LKR 3,000-15,000 depending on proximity). Book 2-3 months in advance through your hotel or the Diyawadana Nilame office. Worth every rupee for comfort and unobstructed views.

Tips:
- The procession passes each point twice (outbound and return) so you see it all from one spot
- Bring earplugs - the drumming is extraordinary but intense
- Dress modestly near the temple (no bare shoulders or short shorts)
- Book Kandy accommodation 4-6 months ahead; the city fills completely