3 Answers from travellers
Yes. Real working plantations exist. Look south (Matara, Ambalangoda, Bentota outskirts). Family-run, actual peeling operations, no showy demonstration - just real work you observe. Contact via: (1) Sri Lanka Ecotourism Foundation (they connect you with village visits). (2) Ask a knowledgeable chauffeur to arrange (they know locals). (3) Silva's Cinnamon Estate near Matara does small-group visits. Cost: 2000-5000 LKR for 2-3 hour tour. Buy cinnamon quills at farm gate for 40-60% off tourist shop prices.
^ this. Also: 'spice gardens' along the Kandy road are near-100% tourist traps. Show demos of 12 spices in 20 min, then sell you tiny bags for tourist prices. If you want to buy spices, do it at Kandy Central Market or a local shop after the plantation visit. Never at the 'spice garden'.
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