Kandy to Ella train - how to actually get a seat, which side to sit, and what to expect?
The Kandy to Ella scenic train seems to be the most recommended thing in Sri Lanka but I can't find straight answers to the practical questions.
1. How do you buy tickets and can you book them online in advance?
2. Which class is actually worth it - first class observation saloon, second, or third?
3. Which side of the train should you sit on for the best views?
4. How long does the journey take and is the train usually on time?
5. What are the most scenic sections and what am I looking for out the window?
6. Is the observation car at the back worth the extra cost?
7. Are there seats at all or do people just hang out of the open doors?
8. Can I do just the Ella to Nanu Oya section or is the full Kandy to Ella the one to do?
9. What is the train station situation in Ella - where does it drop you?
I'm coming from Germany and I planned to take this train as a highlight of the trip. I just want to make sure I don't end up with a terrible seat in a packed carriage for 7 hours wondering what the fuss was about.
3 Answers
I live in Ella and I deal with this question from arriving guests every single week. Let me give you the full picture.
First, a clarification that causes a lot of confusion: there is no direct Colombo to Ella train. You travel Colombo to Kandy by train or bus, then take a separate train from Kandy (or Peradeniya Junction just outside Kandy) towards Badulla, stopping at Ella. The scenic section everyone talks about is Kandy to Ella, specifically the stretch from Nanu Oya (near Nuwara Eliya) through Haputale to Ella. That section through the tea country is extraordinary.
Tickets: you can book second and third class online through the Sri Lanka Railways website, but the system is unreliable and crashes regularly. The practical approach most people use is to go to Kandy station in person the morning of or the day before and book at the counter. First class observation saloon can sometimes be booked through the website or at the station. Seats do sell out on popular trains, so earlier is better.
Classes: Third class is bench seating and gets crowded. You can ride with the doors open. Second class has padded seats and is fine for the journey. First class observation saloon is at the rear of the train, has large panoramic windows, and is worth the extra cost specifically for photographs - but honestly the views from second class with the windows open are just as good and more immersive.
Which side: from Kandy heading to Ella, sit on the LEFT side of the train for the valley views. This is the side that faces out over the tea-covered hillsides as you climb. The right side faces the mountain wall in several sections. Ask the person at the counter when you buy your ticket.
Scenic highlights: the Demodara Nine Arches Bridge (look for it about 2-3 hours into the Kandy departure - the train crosses it slowly and you can see it dramatically from the windows or hang from the doorway), the Idalgashinna section through mist and cloud forest, and the final descent into the Ella valley.
Timing: the journey from Kandy takes about 7 hours. The train is almost always late by 30-90 minutes. Build this into your plans. The early morning train catches the mist in the tea country which is the most photogenic.
Ella station: tiny, right in town, 5 minutes walk from the main strip. You can't miss where you're going.
Did this journey in December from Kandy. Second class, left side as suggested. The Nine Arches Bridge section was spectacular - the train slows right down and half the passengers are leaning out the open doorways taking photos. Nobody stops you. The mist was in the valleys below us for most of the tea country section. Seven hours sounds like a lot but it genuinely did not feel long. Bring snacks from Kandy because the food on the train is limited - vendors do come through with short eats and drinks but not enough for a meal.
One practical addition: if you can't get a seat and end up standing in third class it's still not a bad experience. Standing near the open doors on the left side with the wind and the views is actually how a lot of locals travel. Slightly uncomfortable for 7 hours but not terrible if you're not carrying a huge backpack. Also worth knowing: the observation saloon at the rear sometimes gets disconnected from the train at intermediate stops - I've heard of people missing the reconnection. Stay aware of this if you're in the rear carriage.
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