Trincomalee and the east coast - worth the trip and how does it compare to the south coast beaches?
I've done a lot of diving in Cape Town and I'm specifically interested in whether the diving and snorkelling around Trincomalee is worth the journey from Colombo.
1. What are the beaches around Trincomalee actually like - Nilaveli, Uppuveli, how do they compare to the south?
2. Is the diving and snorkelling genuinely good or is it average by international standards?
3. Are there coral reefs in good condition and what marine life would I typically see?
4. What time of year is best for the east coast and when is the sea flat enough for diving?
5. Is Trincomalee itself an interesting town or just a base for the beaches?
6. What other activities or sights are there beyond the beach - I've heard about whale sharks and the hot springs?
7. How do you get from Colombo to Trincomalee and how long does it take?
8. Is the accommodation infrastructure good enough or is it very basic?
I have 12 days total and I'm deciding whether to include Trincomalee or stick to the more established south coast circuit.
2 Answers
I'm based in Trincomalee and I've worked with divers and beach travellers for years. Here's the honest comparison.
The beaches: Nilaveli and Uppuveli are different from the south coast in character. Less developed, longer, wider, with calmer water in season (May to September). The sand is whiter and finer than most south coast beaches. Pigeon Island, about 1km offshore from Nilaveli, has a national park with decent coral reefs and is the main snorkelling and diving attraction. In the south you won't find anything comparable in terms of reef quality.
The diving: Pigeon Island has hard coral in reasonable condition with good fish diversity - reef sharks, turtles, moray eels, and large schools of fish are regular. By international standards it is not exceptional - no one would call it world class - but for Sri Lanka it is the best easily accessible reef diving. Beyond Pigeon Island, Bar Reef further offshore is genuinely excellent for those willing to do a longer boat trip. Visibility in July-August is typically 15-25 metres.
Whale sharks: yes, whale shark encounters are reported in the waters off Trincomalee, particularly May to July. Not guaranteed but the season alignment makes it a realistic possibility, which you do not get in the south.
Hot springs at Kanniya: a genuine oddity worth an hour - seven hot spring wells within metres of each other, each at slightly different temperatures, right beside the sea. It's free, genuinely unusual, and very local.
Trincomalee town: has a military base and colonial history. The Koneswaram temple on Swami Rock, a Hindu temple perched on a cliff with views over the harbour, is legitimately impressive. The town itself is not beautiful but it has an authentic working port feel entirely different from Galle or the southern resort towns.
Getting there: overnight train from Colombo (8-9 hours) is the most practical. There are also private car hire options (about 4-5 hours). From Kandy, about 4 hours by car.
Accommodation: the main beach strip at Uppuveli has a reasonable range of mid-range guesthouses and small hotels. Nilaveli has fewer options but more upmarket resorts have opened. It's not as limited as it was 5 years ago.
For your 12-day itinerary: if diving matters to you, yes - include it. 3 nights gives you enough time for Pigeon Island twice and the town sights.
Spent 4 nights at Uppuveli in July. The water was completely flat every day, the snorkelling at Pigeon Island was excellent - I saw three turtles, a small reef shark, and the coral in the shallower sections was healthy and colourful. The beach itself was almost empty compared to anything I had seen in Mirissa or Unawatuna. One thing nobody mentions: the sunrises over the ocean from the east coast are extraordinary because the east coast faces east - you get the sun rising directly out of the sea. Completely different from the west coast sunsets everyone photographs.
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