Yala September closure is it really shut for the whole month and what is open instead

Yes, Yala Block 1 (the busiest block, where most safaris happen) traditionally closes annually for about a month around September to allow the park to recover from the drought, refill waterholes, and avoid disturbing animals during the harshest dry period. The exact dates shift year to year so check the Department of Wildlife Conservation announcement closer to your dates. Block 5 of Yala usually stays open during the Block 1 closure. Alternatives that are open year-round: Wilpattu (excellent for leopards and atmosphere), Bundala (best for birds, right next to Yala), Udawalawe (elephants), Kaudulla and Minneriya near Sigiriya (elephant gathering Aug-Sep is the highlight). Honestly, the Yala-Block-1 closure is often a blessing in disguise; the alternatives are less crowded and equally rewarding.