Visiting the Vedda community at Dambana without it becoming a human zoo
The Wanniyala Aetto the indigenous people of this island maintain a community at Dambana near Mahiyangana that receives visitors I have an anthropology background and strong allergies to staged ethnic tourism the costume photo the choreographed dance for coaches How do I visit in a way the community itself controls and benefits from What is the honest current state of the encounter and what should a respectful visitor know read or unlearn beforehand
4 Answers from travellers
Liaison work between Dambana and the outside is my role so the unvarnished state of things Your allergy is well calibrated both versions of the encounter exist at the same address The coach version buses arrive a brief dance is performed bows are demonstrated photographs are taken money changes hands through intermediaries and everyone leaves within the hour the community has agency in this too it is income they price and permit but it teaches nobody anything The version worth having arrange through the Dambana cultural centre directly or through a Mahiyangana guesthouse with a genuine relationship ask specifically for a visit with an interpreter and time The difference is structural you sit you drink bee honey tea questions move in both directions the elders speak about the forest knowledge the medicinal systems the land rights struggle since the Maduru Oya park designation enclosed their hunting grounds in 1983 and what continuity means when the children school in Sinhala The chief grants audiences when present and disposed this is his prerogative not a ticketed feature What to unlearn beforehand the stone age tribe framing entirely these are politically organised people negotiating modernity on their own terms with a language revival project and supreme court litigation history Reading Wiveca Stegeborn published extensively on the Wanniyala Aetto and the displacement story Conduct notes photography by explicit invitation only buy the honey and the crafts directly hands to hands and budget a half day minimum the encounter resists hurry by design
The honey alone justifies the journey wild forest comb gathered from cliff hives nothing in a supermarket relates to it
Stegeborn ordered the half day booked through the cultural centre and the framing unlearned this is exactly the calibration I needed
Mahiyangana itself rewards the trip the dagoba there is held to be the oldest on the island marking the first of the three legendary visits and the Sorabora Wewa ancient tank at sunset is glorious
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