Authentic Lamprais and Jaffna crab curry sourcing for food story
Writing a Sri Lankan food feature need authentic Dutch Burgher lamprais (banana leaf wrapped rice bundle) NOT the hotel buffet versions Also pursuing the famous Jaffna crab curry which I hear in Colombo can be hit or miss Best addresses to taste these properly and is it worth the train to Jaffna for the original
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5 Answers from travellers
For real Dutch Burgher lamprais order from Dutch Burgher Union Colombo on Saturdays only home cooked recipes passed down from 1908 Or Love at First Bite (small home kitchen in Wellawatte) bookings via Instagram The hotel versions are mass produced and missing the frikkadeller (pork meatballs) and seeni sambol balance For Jaffna crab curry Mango Mango or The Jetwing Jaffna restaurant if you cannot travel north but yes the train to Jaffna is absolutely worth it 6 hours scenic Original Mr Mangs in Jaffna town and Cosy Restaurant for the authentic crab curry red chilli heavy thicker gravy than southern versions Roughly 2500 LKR per crab in Jaffna versus 6500 LKR in Colombo
In Colombo for cheap eats try Hotel de Pilawoos for kottu Pizza Hut for chicken curry pizza an actual Sri Lankan invention and Galle Face Hotel rooftop for high tea heritage
Take the 0545 Yal Devi train from Colombo Fort to Jaffna 6 hour scenic ride through the dry zone and across the Elephant Pass causeway
Palmyra products are Jaffna only fresh toddy palm jaggery odiyal flour the food is genuinely distinct from southern Sri Lankan cuisine
Jaffna also has the unique pittu with palmyra jaggery breakfast at Rio Ice Cream upstairs cafe on Hospital Road A genuine Tamil culture meal
Scam Watch: colombo
Driver claims the meter is broken and quotes an inflated flat rate. Common on arrival at airport or railway stations when tourists are tired and disoriented.
Drivers wearing official-looking uniforms claim to be "government-approved" and charge 3-5x normal rates. They may have fake badges or ID cards.
Women with babies approach asking you to buy milk powder at a nearby shop (not cash). The shop is run by accomplices and charges 5-10x normal price.
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