Sri Lanka train network — which routes are worth taking for the experience vs just for transport?

Sri Lanka's train network has some genuinely world-class routes and some that are purely functional. Here's the breakdown:

Top routes for the experience:

1. Kandy → Ella (via Nanu Oya) — the famous one, 6–7 hours, spectacular tea country scenery. Everything you've read is true. Take second class unreserved for the open-door experience, or first class for reserved seating.

2. Colombo Fort → Galle (Coastal Line) — genuinely beautiful. The train runs parallel to the ocean, sometimes metres from the beach. Turquoise water through the train window for the entire 2.5-hour journey. Far more scenic than the highway.

3. Colombo → Jaffna (Northern Line) — recently reopened after decades of closure. Long (7–8 hours) but historically significant and the landscape of the north is distinct from anywhere else on the island.

Purely functional routes:
- Colombo → Kandy: fine, nothing special scenically, useful for time
- Colombo → Negombo: the airport is not on the rail line; bus is needed

Booking:
Second class unreserved: just turn up and buy at the station. First class and sleepers: can book up to 30 days in advance at the station. Online booking via seatreservation.railway.gov.lk works but is slow — station booking is more reliable.

Class comparison:
- Third class (unreserved): very cheap, very crowded, not recommended for long routes
- Second class (unreserved): recommended — open windows, door access, local atmosphere
- First class (reserved): air conditioned, guaranteed seat, much quieter, worth it for long overnight journeys