Colombo to Ella - what is the best route and what should I stop to see along the way?
I am planning to travel from Colombo to Ella and I want to understand all my options and what to see en route. I keep reading about the Kandy to Ella train being unmissable. Does that mean I should go via Kandy even if it adds a day? Or is there a more direct route? What are the must-see stops between Colombo and Ella? Should I do this as one long journey or break it up and how?
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2 Answers from travellers
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The answer depends on how much time you have, but I will give you the optimal route most travellers should take.
The recommended route: Colombo → Kandy → Ella (via Nanu Oya / Haputale)
Go via Kandy. Yes, it adds a day or two, but the train journey from Kandy (or Nanu Oya, near Nuwara Eliya) to Ella is among the most scenic rail journeys in the world, and taking the direct route to Ella by road or via Badulla misses it entirely.
Recommended breakdown:
- Colombo → Kandy: 3-4 hours by train or bus. Arrive in the afternoon, spend a night.
- Kandy → Nanu Oya or Haputale → Ella: take the morning train from Kandy. The section from Nanu Oya through Haputale to Demodara and Ella is extraordinary — the train passes through cloud forest, tea estates, and crosses the famous Nine Arches Bridge area. Book this train in advance (2nd class reserved or 1st class observation carriage). Journey time Kandy to Ella is about 6-7 hours.
- Break the journey at Nuwara Eliya (alight at Nanu Oya station, 8km away) for a night if you want to explore the hill country town, or push through to Ella.
What to see along the way:
- Kandy: Temple of the Tooth, Kandy Lake, the market
- Nuwara Eliya: colonial town, Victoria Park, tea estate visits, Gregory Lake
- Haputale: Lipton's Seat viewpoint (Dilmah tea estate territory — extraordinary morning mist view)
- The train itself: the key experience, especially the Demodara Loop (the train circles below itself through a tunnel)
Direct Colombo-Ella by road or bus: possible in one long day but you miss everything above. Only worthwhile if you are returning and have already seen the hill country.
Saman's route is exactly right. From my area in Hatton: if you are taking the Kandy-Ella train, consider stopping at Hatton station for a night before Ella. The Hatton-Nuwara Eliya area (Dimbula valley) has some of the finest tea estate scenery in the country and is almost never on tourist itineraries because everyone rushes through to Ella. From Hatton you can do a tea factory visit in the morning and then catch the afternoon train to Ella. The scenery on the Hatton to Haputale section of the train is arguably even better than the famous Haputale-Ella stretch.
Scam Watch: colombo
Driver claims the meter is broken and quotes an inflated flat rate. Common on arrival at airport or railway stations when tourists are tired and disoriented.
Drivers wearing official-looking uniforms claim to be "government-approved" and charge 3-5x normal rates. They may have fake badges or ID cards.
Women with babies approach asking you to buy milk powder at a nearby shop (not cash). The shop is run by accomplices and charges 5-10x normal price.
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